Patisseries
are an important part of the cultural fabric of a city, and Baylan is
one of the most prominent of patisseries in Istanbul. Baylan became
famous at the same time the Turkish Republic was born, in the 1920's,
through its delicious pastries, pies, chocolates and Western-oriented
sweets.
Philip
Lenas, a Greek from Epirus, founded the Baylan patisseries when he was
just 15 after coming to Turkey from Albania. His only goal was to be
a good pastry man. After settling in Istanbul, he worked for several
years in the first Turkish chocolate shop, the French-operated Mulatiye.
He then realized his dream by opening his first patisserie on Deva Pent
Road in 1923, in the Beyoglu district. He nambed it "Loryan",
the pronunciation of the word L'Orient in French. In 1934, a law was
passed that mantadet the conversion of foreign names into Turkish. Baylan
was thus born. The name vas selectes upon the recommendation of an Art
History professor, Burhan Toprak, who was one of the frequent customers
of the patisserie. Baylan means "excellence, perfection" in
Chatagai Turkish.
Baylan gained fame through its high-quality array of around 200 types
of pastries and sweets. It also began to be mentioned together with
Markiz, Lebon and Moskova, the famous patisseries of the time. The luxury
hotels catering to statesmen and foreign elite, such as Pera Palas and
Park Hotel Tokatliyan, offered Baylan sweets. Receptions held at the
Dolmabahce Palace with Atatürk and his best families in Istanbul were
catered by Baylan, Some people actually adopted "Baylan" as
their surname and even named their children after the patisserie.
The second Baylan was established in Karakoy in 1925, in an area without
even a square at the time. In 1928, The Beyoglu Baylan reopened on the
ground floor of the Luvr Apartment at 148 Istiklal Street in Beyoglu.
In 1954 the Karakoy Baylan moved to the ground floor of the historical
building in whicih Axa Oyak stands today. The third branch of Baylan
was established in Kadikoy in 1961 by Michael Lenas, the youngest son
of Philip Lenas, who received training in business administration in
the UK. Meanwhile, the well-established Baylan Chocolate Plant on Mumhane
Cad. No.19 in Kadikoy move6d to Gayrettepe in 1953 (the current location
of the Yapi Kredi Bank) and shut down in 1984.
The current owner of Baylan, Harry Lenas, is the elder son of Philip
Lenas. After graduating from high school, he learned the profession
in the Beyoglu Baylan. He subsequently received training in Zuckerbaecker
Shule, a pastry school in Vienna, and practiced his craft in various
patisseries throughout Vienna. He was trained as a resident pupil in
Richmont Fachsule in Luzern, Switzerland, specializing in pastry and
chocolate praline. He then implemented his vast education in the famous
Movenpick Restaurant. He also took various courses in chocolate in Gefrat
Solingen. Harry Lenas returned to Turkey as an accomplished pastry and
chocolate specialist. Following in his father's footsteps and returning
to Turkey in 1954, Harry Lenas opened the first day-time bar named "Tagesbar"
on the opposite site of the tunnel exit in Karakoy.
One creation of his, the "Cup Griye" became instantly famous.
It is made with ice cream, caramel sauce, toastad almonds, vanilla,
pistachios, crème chantilly and served with cat's tounge biscuits. Among
the other "firsts in Turkey" of Baylan were Italian espresso,
Italian ice cream, milk shakes, Scandinavian canapes and toasts, cappucino,
and the first liquor, praline, lemon and krokan chocolates.
The three established Baylan shops were in quite different locations
with their own distinct character. The Karakoy Baylan was located across
from the exit of the travelers purchasing pastries and chocolates. The
Kadikoy Baylan with its beautiful ivy-covered garden was a romantic
gathering spot for people of all ages. The Beyoglu Baylan is now remembered
as the meeting place where famous literary men gathered to chat and
discuss the issues of the time. Its hey-day was between 1950 and 1960.
Due to slowly deteriorating conditions of the neighborhood, the Beyoglu
Baylan was closed in 1967. In 1992, the Karakoy Baylan also had to shut
its doors due to building amendments.
Baylan is credited with having an important influence on Turkish culture
through being the regular meeting place of many famous writers, poets,
painters, and actors. The topics and ideas discussed and debated at
Baylan found their wal into the literature, philosophy and art of the
time. Among the frequent Beyoglu customers were Atilla Ilhan, Oktay
Akbal, Behcet Necatigil, Fazıl Hüsnü Daglarca, Haldun Taner, Cemal Süreyya,
Salah Birsel, Peyami Safa, Orhan Kemal, Orhan Duru, Ahmet Oktay and
Fethi Naci, as well as female Leyla Erbil, Tomris Uyar and Sevim Burak.
This group was known as "Baylancılar". The most renowned member
was Tarık Bugra, who wrote his gazette articles while in Baylan.
The only Baylan store still operating to day is the Kadikoy Baylan.
Harry Lenas manages the store and continues to participate in several
international pastry conferences and exhibitions. He is also a founding
member of the food and beverages club named "Chaine des Rotisseurs".
He continues to work hands-on to where his trained eyes and palate can
easily discern the quality of the creations. These new creations along
with the established favorits continue to draw crowds into the beautiful
and relaxing environment of the Kadikoy Baylan's ivy-covered garden.
Along with catering to the Turkish populace, Baylan has exported goods
to Europe. Furthermore, Baylan has trained many famous pastry chefs,
now living in countries as far as the U.S. and Australia. It is such
a brand-name, such a landmark, that Baylan can even be found in the
Meydan Larousse enyclopedia. Baylan is one of the oldest and most successful
patisseries in Istanbul, and Harry Lenas intends to continue the Baylan
tradition.